plzen, czech republic
08 December 2008
25 November 2008
29 October 2008
ich bin ein berliner
It’s a five hour train ride from
Mary, Meredith, Kelly, Jeanne, Hannah, and I took the U-Bahn (the underground metro) to Alexanderplatz to see the tv tower, which has become a symbol of
From there we took the U-Bahn once more, further into town this time, to Friedrichstrasse which is the main thoroughfare with shopping and historical landmarks. We stopped to look into a designer department store and realized it was a building done by Jean Nouvel, called the Galleries Lafayette, that has an inverted cone in the center of the building which has actually become a garbage shoot for people in the store – I’m sure this is not what Nouvel had intended for his building’s interior.
Not far from the shopping area, you can take a left onto Unter Den Linden Strasse and follow it straight to the Brandenburg Gate where Napoleon and Hitler both marched through with their forces.
After exploring a little bit more of
On Saturday we had to meet our professor at the
After spending some time at the market, we met back up with the rest of the group at the foot of the stairs to the
We passed the Brandenburg Gate again and the bank done by Frank Gehry next to the American Embassy. Around the corner was the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe by Peter Eisenman. The memorial consists of an entire block filled with rectangular prisms that change in height according to the undulating floor plane. The grid of prisms can be walked through to reach the memorial building that houses an interesting yet entirely sobering exhibit on what Jewish people went through during the Holocaust, not only in Berlin but through out the entire continent of Europe. The whole monument was quite powerful in its ability to display and articulate the unimaginable in a simple and unrestrained way. I think this was one of the best memorials I have ever been to.
From the memorial, Mary, Meredith, Hannah, Jeanne and I went to find a place for dinner. We made our way to a café near one of the opera houses and had a really great, small meal. From there we headed back to the hostel to meet up with everyone else again.
15 of us headed out to a wine place and found it to be too packed, and then to a ping pong bar that turned out to be too packed for all of us too. So we split up into two groups to make things easier. The group I was with headed to a restaurant for dessert and coffee. After a while, we headed back to the hostel and went to bed exhausted, again.
On Sunday we had to meet up with our professor once again, but this time not until 11. So before meeting him at the Jewish Museum, a few of us went to Checkpoint Charlie, the Berlin Wall, and the Topography of Terror.
Checkpoint Charlie was the last gate between the American and Soviet Sectors when
Anyway… after Checkpoint Charlie, it was only a 5 minute walk to the longest portion of the Berlin Wall that is still standing. The Wall is falling apart, but you can still see the graffiti on the western side of it, as well as the rebar coming through the crumbling concrete. This portion of the wall backs up to an exhibition called the Topography of Terror, which talks about that particular location and how it was completely bombed to bits by the Allies. It’s pretty interesting the amount of history in just that one block of land in the middle of
Around 11 we met up with Paul at the Jewish Museum for a 3 hour period of touring the museum. The building was designed by Daniel Liebskind, an architect whose work at the
At the end of the crossing hallway there is an outdoor garden, called the
So… after the Jewish Museum we got lunch. My first cheeseburger in 2 months - it was awesome! And then we went on another “architecture walk” with my professor.
We stopped at 3 city blocks that were assigned to 3 distinct architects to develop in a way that they saw fit and that worked well with
Moving on…
After the “architecture walk” we were free for the rest of the afternoon. So, several of us decided to go to the New National Gallery, which was closed, to take pictures. From there we took the bus to the Bauhaus Archive. This was especially important to all of us as architecture students because the Bauhaus curriculum is what our architecture program at NC State is based upon. The Bauhaus was started in the 1930s by Walter Gropius originally in
From the Bauhaus Archive we went past the Brandenburg Gate again and to the Reichstag, the Berlin Parliament building. Unfortunately the dome of the building was closed so we decided not to spend the money on going in, but we hung out outside and took some pictures of it at night. From there we went to a restaurant and ate a dinner outside… it was cold, but the heat lamps made it completely tolerable.
On Monday we checked out of our horrible hostel and went to the Hauptbahnhof to drop off our bags. From there Mary, Meredith, and I went to the Olympic Stadium that held the 1936 Olympics. It was a pretty huge and incredible space where you could absolutely sense how terrifying it would have been to see Adolf Hitler and his Gestapo marching up the promenade to the stadium.
After the Olympic Stadium we took the U-Bahn back to Potsdamer Platz and then to the
After finishing up our architecture thing, Mary, Meredith and I found a great Italian restaurant called Pasta + Passion for lunch. From there we headed back to the Hauptbahnhof for another 5 hour journey back to
Now that I’m back in
The next few weeks are as follows:
Krakow/Auschwitz,
Flying Back to the
Ps. Pictures coming soon, along with good internet…
28 October 2008
spa trip to karlovy vary
Last Saturday, Mary, Meredith, Julie and I took a 2 hour bus ride to the historic spa town called
We arrived in
Realizing that we were not going to get into any bath if we stayed inside, away from the cold, we decided to walk the cold streets to find another bath. We found two others, but they were both closed on weekends to “healthy people” – meaning, they were only open to people needed serious treatments. This isn’t surprising, since
Along the river in the center of town, we walked and found a small massage parlor on a hill. They had openings for all four of us that afternoon and we booked it. In the meantime, we decided to check out the rest of the town and get some lunch. We went through the mineral springs and tried some of the water – it’s very warm and you can definitely taste the sulfur. Not my favorite water, but supposedly it’s healing? Either way, every single person in
After a great and really inexpensive Czech lunch, we headed back to the spa for an hour aroma therapy massage. Afterwards they treated us to some warm coffee and invited us to hang out in their lounge for as long as we wanted. Not wanting to go back in the cold, we stayed for a little while and then paid for our remarkably cheap massages.
By the time we went back outside, the fog had lifted and the sun was shining, making the cold much more bearable. We had about 2 hours to kill before we had to catch our bus back to
After the pool it was time to head to the bus station and catch a ride back to
In the end we sucked it up and got on another bus an hour later than intended, causing us to miss the concert we were trying to go to once we got back into
19 October 2008
tour guide
This Friday, Meredith and I decided we needed to get to know
But we went to the Jewish Cemetery as a start. The Jewish ghetto, Josefov, of
Anyway, the Jewish Ghetto is pretty interesting and has a lot of history in
Next to the cemetery is a Holocaust Memorial at the Pinkas Synagogue, where on the walls are engravings of the names of 80,000 murdered Bohemian Jews. It was quite a sobering sight.
After exploring Josefov for most the afternoon, Meredith and I headed back into the heart of Old Town and took pictures of Old Town Square, which is literally a 3 minute walk from my school. In the center of the square is a statue/monument of Jan Hus – a 15th century reformer that lead the Hussite movement, which challenged the Catholic church and its corruption – who was burned at the stake in 1415 for his reformist ‘heresy’. Opposite Jan Hus is the Astronomical Clock –not even worth watching – and the
Just a short walk from Old Town Square through thousands of tourists and by 100s of souvenir shops selling crystal, amber, scarves, puppets, etc, and finally down a small street called Michalska is my school. It’s in a small little courtyard that closes it’s doors at 9:30 every night. We occupy the top floors of the 14th century building and we share the courtyard with a gallery, several apartments, and a tea shop.
Inside we have a pretty great space – we have a lecture room, a kitchen, a small computer lab, and 3 studio rooms. My desk is in the furthest corner, next to a small kitchenette.
Although the space is small and the internet is pretty slow most of the time, I’ve really enjoyed studio here. My second project is due next week, as soon as I get back from
to share what I’ve been working on lately then.
birthday number twenty-one
This past week was my twenty first birthday and I was lucky enough to have several ways to celebrate it.
On Tuesday our program had tickets to the National Opera. We saw a Czech opera called “The Bartered Bride.” As my first opera, it was an okay show. The story was pretty predictable even without the English translation, but it was really nice to sit in the National Theater – it’s quite a beautiful space.
On Wednesday, my actual birthday (Oct. 15), I had school like every other day, but I did get to talk to Mom and Dad on the phone, which was great – it really made the day feel like my birthday. After studio some of the girls took me to the Bake Shop, which is a really great bakery near
Afterwards we headed back to the pension for a while, and Kelly bought me a Gambrinus beer, my first “legal” drink – legal is a relative term in
Around 9:00, about 15 of us went to a restaurant a couple of tram stops away called Radost FX. It’s a really fun and chic space with a vegetarian menu. Several of my friends thought it was their duty to make sure my 21st lived up to all the hype in
(Mom and Dad if you’re reading this – don’t worry, I paced myself very well and stayed within reason!).
Anyway, after an amazing cheese quesadilla – something I’ve been craving for a while here – we headed downtown to a club/bar called Chateau Rouge. I had been there before and found it to be a pretty fun place with two stories underground of different DJs and dance floors. We didn’t stay there for too long as it was already near 2am and we all had school early in the morning.
Overall it was a really fun birthday – and it’s really hard to believe I’m 21 already!
14 October 2008
Vienna
Back on track….
So…
We got into
coffee. Afterwards it had gotten pretty late so we stopped at a bar called Weiwurm and tried the Radler drink – which is the local draft beer with lemon juice… so good!
On Friday we started with a sketching session led by our professor at the Rathaus – the Viennese parliament building. After an hour of me struggling to draw something well, everyone split up into their separate groups to explore the city some more.
My group – myself, Meredith, Mary, and Julie – went to the architecture museum (Arkitekturzentrum Wien) and then the
The Karlskirche (Karls Church) was in the same garden area, so we went inside. Once in the nave you can see the amount of restoration they are doing on the dome of the church. There’s actually tourist access to the top of the dome to see the restoration work. We took the elevator up to the base of the scaffolding and then climbed about 10 flights of stairs to the very apex of the dome and into the lantern. I can’t even describe how amazing it is to be in the same field of vision as a dome – something that is so illusive and monumental and distant in ones usual interaction with it. The scaffolding was a little shaky and there was no one to regulate the amount of people going up and down, so we ascended and descended as quickly as possible!
After the Karlskirche we went to a student housing project done by a famous female architect Zaha Hadid and got a private tour by oneof the contractors.
Definitely not my favorite building… it’s actually pretty impractical for students, but I’m glad I saw it so I could make my own judgments on it.
From there we headed back into the center of town in search of another famous architect’s work – the American Bar by Adolf Loos. It’s a tiny little bar, but is really quite beautiful with its low lighting and tile work on the ceiling and walls. I had a delicious hot chocolate while I was there too J
That night we went met up with some of our other classmates at another hostel and went out to a popular bar/club district called the Bermuda Triangle. Not very exciting – but, we did happen to find some good music and a really creepy Austrian man. Luckily we got rid of him and danced a good part of the night away.
On Saturday we started off once again with some sketching but this time at the Loos House – a bank by Adolf Loos near the center of Vienna – and this time while I was sketching I was able to enjoy the music of an Austrian Senior Citizen Marching Band… not something you see every day!
After our hour of sketching (I did much better this day), Meredith, Mary, Julie, and I went on to the Votive Church, the Hundertwasserhaus, the Kunst Haus Wien, and then to our favorite little café for an afternoon coffee.
We met up with most everyone else at the Praterstern – the amusement park/fair of
Sunday was our day to head back to
Another four hour train ride took us back to
More to come this week…lot’s of things going on. So, I’ll try to be more frequent with my posts in the coming days!
bone church
It’s been a while since my last post… the internet has been iffy at best and there has been a lot going on around here to keep me away from my computer. Nonetheless, I’m going to try now to get everyone up to speed on everything here in
Two Fridays ago, my program had an excursion to a small town about an hour outside of
From the vernacular museum we headed into Kutna Hora and stopped at the world famous ossuary they have there. It’s a chapel that has been ornamented by thousands of bones from victims of a plague that came through southern
Anyway, after the “bone church” we went into the center of the town of
After the mine tour we got back on our bus and headed back to
More stories to come about my fall break trip to
01 October 2008
Gone German
So, the whole "no plans for the weekend" wasn't entirely true. About 3 hours after my last post I decided to go to
6 of us took the train from Prague at 10:30 in the morning to Dresden, arriving at about 12:45. The train was incredibly packed and we were kicked out of the cabin we had sat in originally, forcing us to sit/stand in the hall way for a while. Eventually we all split up and got seats in cabins with empty seats. The ride was really short, about 2 hours or so, and beautiful along the Elbe river. Crossing into Germany we had a passports checked twice and then we weren't far from the small city of Dresden.
After arriving, we walked down Prague Street and crossed the bridge from Old Town to New Town to find our hostel, called Hostel Louisa. We dropped off our things and searched for a place to have lunch. Not too far from the hostel we found a Mexican restaurant, and, yes, we stopped there -- hard to believe our first meal in Germany was Mexican food.
At the restaurant we met up with Anna and Julie and then the 8 of us headed into Old Town. Along the way we stopped to see the Coop Himmeb(l)au UAF Cinema (image on the left) and then we walked to the Volkwagon Glaswerk building. We stopped for a beer at a small market/ festival in the traditional market area that holds the oldest Weihnachtmarkt in Germany during Christmas time.
It was about twilight around this time and everyone was pretty hungry, so we walked through the Old Town Square -- which has Frauenkirche, a church that was nearly completely destroyed in the 1945 bombings of Dresden. The city burned for five days and the city was practically leveled by American forces. Because of this, the majority of the city has been rebuilt and looks much more contemporary that it would have if the original buildings had withstood the destruction.
Anyway, the eight of us found a German restaurant near our hostel called Watzke Brauhaus. They had their own brew of beer and really amazing food. I had a bratwurst with a curry sauce. No lie, the bratwurst was as big as my plate and after not eating bratwurst for eight years, I think I've had more than my share now! After dinner, we all called it a night and headed to bed.
Saturday morning, Leah and Katarina met us at the hostel and the ten of us reached a consensus to split up into smaller groups so we could do what we all wanted. So, Anna, Julie, Katarina, Leah and I went on our way. We stopped for a great breakfast at a local bakery and then crossed the bridge into Old Town. We decided we wanted to get some history and see more of the city than just the main part, so we bought a tour bus ticket that took us around the city all day long with the ability to jump on or off at any time we wanted. We rode the bus all the way to the Elbe Meadows along the Elbe river and got off to take some photos of the the three castles on the opposite side of the river. From there we walked past the Jewish Synagogue and into the Botanical Gardens. We got to the Volkswagon Glaswerk and met up with everyone else, as we had made a reservation the day before for a tour of the factory.
The Volkswagon Glaswerk Manufaktur assembles and produces the Volkswagon Phaeton - this is the only location in the world where it is produced. The Phaeton is Volkswagon's luxury car with amenities putting it on the same level as Mercedes, BMW, and Volvo. Each Phaeton is custom ordered, so there is no mass production. If someone wants one, they come into the factory to pick out everything they want and then come back up to 6 months later and drive away with the Phaeton they designed -- in the end, the median cost of a Phaeton will be about $120,000.
We weren't allowed to take pictures inside the factory, but we were able to tour the facility's assembly area- it was impeccably clean- and then we were able to try a simulator in which we actually were sitting in and driving a Phaeton against a computer generated test track. The tour was a lot of fun and I think I could definitely move back to Germany, buy a Phaeton, and drive all day on the autobahn --- someday when I have a real job??
Anyway, after the tour the ten of us split up again and my group of girls headed back to the tour bus and we rode around until we got to one of the castles on the opposite side of the Elbe River.
We toured around the grounds and then sprinted back to our bus -- we realized almost too late that our this bus was going to be the last one for the day.
We made it on the bus and then back to the hostel to meet up with everyone else. We went out to a traditional German restaurant -I had schnitzel with pommes frites (breaded pork with french fries). Afterwards, we all went out to another bar and then called it a night around 4 am or so... we actually were at the restaurant until after midnight, so it was a long night!
Waking up by 11:30 to check out of the hostel was difficult for everyone, but we managed to do so just in time and then headed to the market place again for lunch. Then we walked to the train station and hopped on a 2 and a half hour train back to Prague.
It was a great spur of the moment trip and I really enjoyed attempting to speak German again -- I couldn't believe how much I remembered!
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